Voltage issues
Posted: Sun Jun 14, 2020 12:24 pm
Howdy
Been on a homebrewing hiatus since about 2014/early 2015.
Getting back in has been painful.
First batch the temp controller I hadn't inspected and was bad. Operated on a DIY glycol system centered around an BCS 460
I got it partially working, but then it pooped out.
Had to replace AC unit.
Had found low voltage to the DC actuated ball valves that opened when fermentation set point called for cooling.
Replaced the DIN mount PSU
Replaced the wiring harness
Replaced the wiring panel mounted wiring fittings to nice quality XLR type.
Still getting voltage dropping to the point the motors on ball valves do not actuate.
Tested ball valves. They all open and close when connected to 18v (Range 9-24 operating Voltage (DC))
When first built worked like a charm, Circa 2013.
I don't want to have to re-invent the wheel here, just want to get it working again.
I suspect it could be the driver board.
I recall not understanding this item much other than the BCS lacked the current output to directly control the ball valves, and the driver board supplies the additional current, basically small low voltage low current relay board??
OCCSYS 8ch Driver board I think I referred to it in a previous post, is what it is and I cannot find where I bought it and where to buy a replacement or alternative item. Other than replacing this I'm not sure what else to do. Maybe a actual relay board like I used on my electric control panel(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M9 ... UTF8&psc=1)? Not sure what the difference is between these two items. Also not sure how I'd mount the latter to my DIN rail....
Any help/suggestions appreciated to help me get the thing working again!
TD
Been on a homebrewing hiatus since about 2014/early 2015.
Getting back in has been painful.
First batch the temp controller I hadn't inspected and was bad. Operated on a DIY glycol system centered around an BCS 460
I got it partially working, but then it pooped out.
Had to replace AC unit.
Had found low voltage to the DC actuated ball valves that opened when fermentation set point called for cooling.
Replaced the DIN mount PSU
Replaced the wiring harness
Replaced the wiring panel mounted wiring fittings to nice quality XLR type.
Still getting voltage dropping to the point the motors on ball valves do not actuate.
Tested ball valves. They all open and close when connected to 18v (Range 9-24 operating Voltage (DC))
When first built worked like a charm, Circa 2013.
I don't want to have to re-invent the wheel here, just want to get it working again.
I suspect it could be the driver board.
I recall not understanding this item much other than the BCS lacked the current output to directly control the ball valves, and the driver board supplies the additional current, basically small low voltage low current relay board??
OCCSYS 8ch Driver board I think I referred to it in a previous post, is what it is and I cannot find where I bought it and where to buy a replacement or alternative item. Other than replacing this I'm not sure what else to do. Maybe a actual relay board like I used on my electric control panel(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M9 ... UTF8&psc=1)? Not sure what the difference is between these two items. Also not sure how I'd mount the latter to my DIN rail....
Any help/suggestions appreciated to help me get the thing working again!
TD