clegg wrote:Great system Jon. Very clean and impressive design.
Thank you!
clegg wrote: I am in planning stages a very similar 3 pump, 1 tier system to be run by ECC. I'm going with that design for the same reasons you are, to easily enable brewing 2 batches simultaneously. Your design definitely will help me as I finalize my build plans. I have a couple questions about your setup that I was hoping you could clarify:
clegg wrote: 1. Did you consider hard plumbing for the kettle returns from the pump? I noticed you chose flexible tubing for those connections, while using hard plumbing everywhere else. What are the reasons you decided to use that approach? How long does it take to set up and tear down?
Sure, I considerer it, but did not go that route because I did not want plumbing extending 20+ inches above the top of the stand. Not only would it be fragile and prone to being bent, it would prevent you from flipping the stand over to work on any wiring underneath.
clegg wrote: 2. How do you control the liquid flow rates, for example during sparge? I'm assuming the controlled valves are only a digital response and are either full open or closed. Do you use the manual valves to adjust flow rate?
See pictures - there are ball valves at the top of each kettle for the returning liquid. I chose to put them there instead of down by the pumps so you can make easy flow adjustments while looking at the flow in the kettle. If you put them down low, you have to bend over to make the adjustment, then stand back up to look in the kettle and see if it is the correct rate.
clegg wrote: 3. Do you have anything wired in to control the mash tun liquid level during sparge? A float switch or similar? I don't see it in your wiring diagram unless I missed it.
No I do not. I've thought about doing some float switches, but I've found that once I set my flow rate on the return valves that I generally don't have to tweak it much. Thus, starting and stopping the flow automatically has not been necessary.
clegg wrote: 4. Can you provide more information and / or pictures of the kettle return plumbing? Specifically how it connects to the boilermaker pots, how the liquid is dispensed inside the top of the pot, and what modifications were required.
See notes above and pics in thread. I'll add another picture to show the whirlpool tube inside the boil kettle.
clegg wrote: 5. I'm also planning natural gas. What burners did you decide on and do you like them? What parts did you order for the pilot light setup (tubing, pilot, valves, etc)? Have you wired your pilot lights into ECC using the new module yet or are they controlled differently?
I am using the 6" 10 tip Wok burners. They seem to be getting hard to find now. They are working fine for me. I bought all three used off someone online, and they already had the standing pilot orifice. Each burner has two manual valves - one to adjust the pilot and one to adjust the burner. The solenoid then fires it on/off based on where I adjusted them to.
clegg wrote: 6. Similar question on the temperature probes. What make / model did you purchase (ECC or other) and how did you physcially put them into the plumbing?
Temp probes are from ECC. See pics for installation. There is one in a T at the input for each pump and another on a T at the output from the therminator.
clegg wrote: Any additional information about these items would be helpful. I'm at the stage of starting to create a parts list and cut sheet, so any additional information about the make/model of parts you used would be good as well.
Thanks for the help.
Other changes from earlier pics:
- My current stand layout has all the gas plumbing moved to the front. This has been easier as any adjustments to be made to pilots or burners can be done without having to walk around behind the stand.
- Changed 3rd kettle to 20 gallon Boilermaker to match the other two.
- Changed to MoreBeer SS quick disconnects.