ECC Forum

I am building a single-tiered, two-pump, semi-automatic recirculating brewing system. It's a work in progress, having started about four weeks ago.

It's based on the MoreBeer/Brutus 10 style, but will feature an adjustable sparge system, and a whirlpool chiller. I'll be using the 460 to control two solenoid gas valves, two march pumps, and also as fermentation control - one to cycle the freezer, and one for a heat belt. I've constructed a small table out of the same 2"x2" steel tubing to hold the laptop.

The build log can be found here:

http://www.smartguypress.com/BrewDevilBuild/index.html

The stand is essentially done. I am just waiting for a small piece of steel to fabricate the pump cover mount.

So, I'll be moving on to the gas plumbing, wiring, and wort plumbing. I am sure I'll have lots of questions that hopefully some of you can help me with.

Very impressive. Your stand is simply amazing.

Thanks!

It's my first crack at making something out of metal. It's come out pretty well, though it was more work than I thought it would be. I am excited to get it all together, wire up the 460 and get brewing.

Michael

ahhhh.. The Brutus 10. That is a good brewing sculpture. I have something very similar. After a few years of brewing on it, I changed a few things.

If you can afford to replace the Solenoid with Furnace Gas Valves, I would recommend it. The solenoid valve has the potential to be open without a pilot being lit. It is a safety issue. The gas valve has built in safety features. I remember the cost being around $135 for the complete gas valve.

I am gathering parts for the control panel/electronics part of the build. Obviously most of the control of the valves and pumps will be through the web interface of the 460. But I also want to be able to manually cycle these components. (I do know I can use the manual "buttons" on the 460 interface)

So, I'd like to have five physical switches on the control box. One for main power, two for pumps, two for gas valves. Does anyone have experience with these illuminated switches:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... =174884619

They look like they'd work, but the one reviewer mentions having problems with the pinouts.

Anyone know of a better illuminated switch? I'd prefer one that needs a round mounting hole...

Thanks!
Michael

I am interested in reading how you are wiring these switches? (SPST 16A 125V Illuminated Round Rocker Switch with Red LED. ) Will you be using the discreet inputs? Here is what I read from the manual.

Discrete Inputs (Dins) are available for switches, push buttons, etc. They are also rated at +5VDC. To assert a Din, connect the Din terminal to the +5VDC terminal (presumably through a switch).

It appears you are essentially "looping" the 5VDC +5VDC through the switch. I think having manual switches is a great idea!

Not sure exactly, but I'll be doing it in a way that bypasses the 460 completely.

Michael

gbrewer wrote:I am interested in reading how you are wiring these switches? (SPST 16A 125V Illuminated Round Rocker Switch with Red LED. ) Will you be using the discreet inputs? Here is what I read from the manual.

Discrete Inputs (Dins) are available for switches, push buttons, etc. They are also rated at +5VDC. To assert a Din, connect the Din terminal to the +5VDC terminal (presumably through a switch).

It appears you are essentially "looping" the 5VDC +5VDC through the switch. I think having manual switches is a great idea!

I also have similar switches in my setup, where I can manually turn any my circuits, for things like pump priming steps and so forth. Ideally I would also have a contrapositive to these switches that allowed me to force circuits off, and my updated box once I get off my prototype will have that function as well, basically a switch to energize the loop and another switch to force it on. It gets to be a bit of wiring, but it's more an issue of steps then particularly complicated.

I have little electrical experience, so bear with me here. As I am getting close to wiring up the control panel for my brewing system, I am thinking about how to do the manual switches. Basically I just want a second way to turn on/off the two pumps and the two solenoid valves, completely bypassing the 460. However, I am not even sure I understand how to wire the 460, SSRs, etc.

Anyway, below is a quick drawing I made of one output, a pump. Will it work? Will it cause a nuclear explosion? Is there a better way?

Thanks!
Michael

Your sketch should work, But if you use a cell phone charger on the BCS side of the SSR, you can get nicer lighted switches to switch the 5v and trigger the SSR.

You'd power the switch with the cell phone charger and use the switch to trigger the SSR. This allows you to use much thinner wire also.

Linc