BCS to pump wiring

[BrooklynBrew]

Hi Everyone,

I'm new to the forum- just got a BCS-462. I've been brewing for a while and wanted to step up my game but I don't really know much about electronics. I've got a friend helping me out this weekend (I don't even know enough to be dangerous so I'm calling in backup!) but I'm trying to learn as much as possible so I can be much more self sufficient when I want to expand my system. I've been reading through a lot of the posts here (and other forums) but I'm looking to get some specific help.

I'm starting off fairly basic with the BCS and this is what I would like to do-

Single tier- two (March) pump system. For now I just want the BCS to turn the pumps off/on and also give me a temp read-out via probes. Setting up the probes doesn't seem be a problem but wiring the pumps does. All of the electronics will be enclosed in a control box (like most people) and I'd like to have everything powered off of one main power source- including the BCS (is this part possible?). I've attached a wiring diagram so I'm hoping someone can take a look and let me know if I'm on the right track or way off. I dont have a lot of room for my brewing equipment so I'm putting the outlets inline with the pumps on the outside of the box so it's easier to disassemble and store (i.e. I can unplug the pumps from the control box and wrap them up instead of being hard wired into the circuits).

A couple of additional questions-
1) what type of extension cord do I need for my main power source?
2) what gauge wire do I need for the SSR/terminal & terminal/outlet wiring?


Thanks in advance for any help. I would really appreciate it.


Sean

[bergerrings]

Hey Sean,

Your diagram is slightly confusing, are those 'din rail terminals' terminal blocks or neutral links? Either way, it looks as if your SSR's are wired incorrectly. You should treat them as a switch on the positive line towards your pumps, so from the positive common inlet, through the SSR and then to the positive terminal on your outlet for the march pump.
For the current you will be pulling with just what you have shown on your diagram, a regular extension cable will be sufficient. You should definitely put in a GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Indicator - or what ever they are called in the states - I'm an Aussie). At the very least get one that plugs directly into a wall socket and has an extension cable attached to it, then just strip off the female end and wire it into your enclosure. Or better yet, if you are using din rail then install a proper din mount GFCI and a regular circuit breaker.

As for the signal wires from the BSC to the SSR, they will only be carrying a tiny amount of current so you can use a pretty small wire.
https://www.eol.ucar.edu/rtf/facilities ... e_Size.htm

Best of luck!

[BrianC]

When I wired up my panel I did a little write-up and posted it at http://cockalebrewery.blogspot.com/2009 ... alive.html. I used outlets as well, so maybe it will help.

[BrooklynBrew]

BCS462(2).pdf

(39.57 KiB) Downloaded 430 times

Thanks guys!

bergerrings- still getting the terminology down- yes, those are DIN rail terminal blocks. I got them from Open Source Control Systems. It definitely makes sense now to have the SSR's in line since they are a switch. GFCI is also good idea- I think I'll stick to the simple wall plug-in version and perhaps upgrade the box later on when I'm around someone that knows more about that. I have a light gauge wire for the wiring from BCS to relays- I was wondering about the other side (outlet to terminal block)- here is a link to the oscsys website with the terminals- https://www.oscsys.com/store/connection ... nal-blocks It mentions 12AWG- is that the gauge wire I need?

BrianC- I actually saw your blog post a few days ago! I was trying to follow the picture and description but it wasn't making sense to me, as a newb, at the time since I've got the terminal blocks and you've got the strps. It's coming together a little bit better know. I'm glad you chimed in!

I've reposted a diagram with some changes to the SSR's. I'm still a bit confused on the terminal blocks part though. They just distribute power from the main source to the rest of the box, right? Do I have this wired up correctly now? or at least a bit closer? does it matter which direction the block is wired from? For example, on the + set of blocks, does the incoming wall power stay on the left and all of the others on the right?

Im also assuming it's ok to wire the BCS power source into the circiut like this? or should I scrap that and just plug it into the wall as I would normally?


Thanks again for the help

[JonW]

The wiring flow of your schematic is correct, but you should change your colors and labels around to accurately note the AC wiring. If you make the mistake that black=ground, then you will likely either kill some equipment or yourself.

Just a couple of points here... this may sound like I'm being nit-picky, but this is important stuff for high-voltage wiring. You have "+", "-" and "Gnd" on your AC wiring which is incorrect. I point this out because your colors are also incorrect which may affect you (shock you!). DC wiring has "+" and "-" (like the outputs of the BCS), but AC has "hot", "neutral" and "ground". It's not just using different names as AC electricity flows differently than DC does. Your colors should be hot=Black (sometimes red), neutral = white and green = ground. You'll see when you cut that extension cord to wire this that it likely will be black, white & green. The black/hot lead is the one you will switch with the SSR's.

[BrooklynBrew]

Thanks for the info, Jon. That's certainly not nit-picking, it's good info to have. I would prefer not to electrocute myself!

one last question- if I wanted to wire in an E-stop switch to turn the main power on and off would I just put that in-line on the hot side between the wall power and the first terminal?

[JonW]

Yes, you could do it that way. You might want to get one of those plug in GFCI modules that you use at the wall and then plug your stuff into it. It has a trip/test button on it that could also be used to cut all power. Two uses in one...

[bergerrings]

That diagram looks much better now. Agree with Jon on the terminology and it is certainly a good idea to keep everything colour coded.
If you use those terminal blocks with them all bridged then it is essentially a neutral link. Doesn't matter on the position (left/right), if you have the bridge along one side then you will only be able to insert wires into the other side, so have your 'input' to the far left and each of your 'outputs' heading to the right, they aren't technically in and out but you get the idea.

I think the 12AWG listed with the terminal blocks is the largest wire that the terminal block will accept. Wiring size is important as it can only safely carry a certain amount of current depending upon is diameter and layout. It is usually calculated rather accurately to cut down on costs as long runs of wire really start to add up quickly. For the small amount we use to wire our enclosures cost isn't a significant issue, so always go a couple sizes up. Add up all the current loads you have now and the ones you plan to add down the track (heaters, ball valves, etc), add 10-20%, look up the link I posted, find the AWG that can safely carry it and then get the next size up. You shouldn't be going any smaller than the wire you will be using for the system power.

With the ESD, I used to do what Jon suggested and would use the test button on the GFCI. You can't put too much current through a mushroom button (probably enough for what you have at the moment) so they usually use a contactor but that's probably best left for another day haha.

[BrooklynBrew]

As for the terminal blocks- they are jumpered together in groups of three (total of 9- 3 hot, 3 neutral, 3 ground). I talked to a guy at ocsys on the phone and he said that three terminal blocks linked together with jumpers would give me six ports. Is that right? I guess I'll have more inputs than I need, but thats ok because I'll be expanding at some point. For some reason I was thinking that the signal would move across the block in one direction from left to right or right to left. I suppose the linked blocks are like a barrier strip? just distributing power throughout?

I picked up some green, white and black 14 gauge solid copper wire and a 9ft 15amp 14 gauge extension cord (also in the same wiring colors- it didn't have the female end). I'll definitely be switching the colors around in my scheme to reflect standard wiring practices. Looking at your link (bergerrings), it seems like 14 gauge should be enough for a while at 32 amps. I got a GFCI as well- maybe over kill to have the E-stop and the GFCI?

when I ordered I bunch of parts from oscsys I also got a few three way switches. Would one of these be better for total power on/off? So I dont have to rewire a switch when I add on more valves, etc...?

I'll be wiring this up tomorrow night or saturday morning. I'll post a pic before I plug anything in.