Another relay module issue

[mdunlop]

Jon,
Im moving our conversation to the forum so others can way in or learn as you suggested. Thank you for the quick response. I Cant find a schematic of the board but have this information below. So everyone understandes my issue. This is how I have everything connected.







The pictures are being cut off so heres a direct link:

http://i1256.photobucket.com/albums/ii4 ... 6542B8.jpg

http://i1256.photobucket.com/albums/ii4 ... 0C4D_1.jpg




I have a seperate power supply providing 12 VDC connected to the small two pin terminal you see in the bottom right corner of the picture. Its labeled GND/12V. My BSC is getting its power from a 12V to 6 V step down transformer powered by the same power power supply that I have connected to the relay board power input.

I dont have a pin connector for the board inputs (the 20pin connector next to the relay power connection) so I simply stripped a jumper wire and connected it from my BCS output0 terminal and touched the #1 input pin on the board. This is the only wire coming from my BCS and the BCS output is turned off with zero volts verified. In this configuration the relay triggers? I dont have anything connected to the relay common or No NC terminals. A load isnt needed to test the interface of the BCS to the board. When I turn the BCS output on and have 5VDC to pin 1 of the board the relay relaxes to its normally open postion, unpowered state. I removed the BCS output 0 wire completly and I then connected a wire from the BCS GRd terminal and touched input pin 1 on the board and the relay triggered. So this leads me to beleive my relay triggered off a ground. But the specs of the board (see below) state that it needs a driver current of 15-20MA and the I/O input port is active low. This doesnt indicate to me a ground is the trigger. Im fustrated beyond belief! The input pins also has a 5v and GND pin along with the 16 others for the relays. I dont know what that is. I know Im not supposed to use the BCS 5v output to drive the board and Im not doing that or using the 5v pin in any way. Could this be the issue. Anyone know what those two pins do?

Im just not convinced I have the wrong relay. Any help would be greatly apptriciated!!!

Here is the link where I purchased: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WQR ... ge_o00_s00






Equipped with high-current relay, maximum load: AC250V 10A, DC30V 12A
Indication LED's for Relay output status;12V 16-Channel Relay interface board, and each one needs 15-20mA Driver Current
With optocoupler protection, strong anti-interference ability
Standard interface can be controlled directly by microcontroller, such as Arduino, 8051, AVR, PIC, DSP, ARM, ARM, MSP433, TTL logic
4 fixed threaded holes, easy to install


Specification:
Compactible with a wide range of microcontrollers such as Arduino, AVR, PIC, ARM and so on.
12V relay contact capacity 10A 250V, with optocoupler protection, strong anti-interference ability.
Onboard power supply module does not require an external power supply.
I / O port driver is active low.
Working voltage: 12V.
Channel: 16 channel.
Size: 17.6 x 9 x1.7cm.

Warranty: Lifetime warranty.
Package include:
1 x relay Module

BEBONCOOL is a registred trademark, which has been filed at Amazon. Any unauthorized sales activity will be considered as a violation of intellectual property rights.







jon' s private message to me:


Do you have any kind of wiring spec for the board? Do you have the BCS ground tied to the board's ground? You likely will need the BCS 5V constant current supplied to the 5V marking on the board as well, but I can't guarantee that without some kind of specs on the board.

Yes there are some relay boards that are driven from a ground signal instead of the input voltage signal. Additionally, there are boards that can use either. The fact that the board has a 5v input tells me that it can probably be driven both ways, but would need the 5V tied to the BCS in order to use it as a reference for the trigger voltage. I can't be certain on that though since I've not seen any specs on the board.

Driving improper loads from the BCS can fry the outputs, so I would make sure it is wired and operating correctly.

Is there any reason you have two user ID's? I would like to delete one. Let me know which one you want to keep.

Also, questions like these should be posted to the forum since others will have and have had similar issues. We all learn together.

[BrunDog]

I didn't read this carefully yet but active low means a circuit is triggered in a ground signal (NPN driven). The BCS output is active high.

-BD

[mdunlop]

I didn't read this carefully yet but active low means a circuit is triggered in a ground signal (NPN driven). The BCS output is active high.

-BD

okay thanks. What are your thoughts about the relay stating a driver current of 15-20ma needed. That seems to indicate a need for current to exercise the relay not a ground path. Do you have any idea what the 5v pin On the input is used for. This is a 12 v board

[JonW]

BrunDog is right. If the specs say it is driven by active low, then it needs a ground input to trigger. The 5V should be a reference from the BCS (continuous 5V signal), but it will still switch on an active ground (when BCS output is off). Unfortunately, it looks like this board doesn't have a selector to choose active low or active high input like some others do.

You really only have two choices here (1) return the board or (2) modify it to work.

I could tell you how to modify it to work, but it will be a bit messy. You can bypass the opto-couplers and wire the BCS 5v outputs to the ULN2803 chip since it triggers on an active high. While doing that is physically possible, I suggest you just move on to a board that works properly with the BCS.

I've bought several boards from an Ebay vendor called "Electronics Salon". I just bought some DIN mount boards from them recently for my new brew rig build and they are very high quality.

[BrunDog]

I can't look at the specs right now as not at computer. I gotta assume a universal board can handle either.

-BD

[mdunlop]

Thanks guys! This has been a learning experience. I hope learning to program and create processes with the BCS will be easier to learn. Some of the HMI discussion had me concerned.

I have seen a few that allow a jumper to provide active low or hi. I dont think mine has this. I have $20 into the relay so it isnt that big of a deal to eat this one.

If you think there is any way to simply convert the one I have Im interested. If we bypass the opticooler what do I loose? What do you mean my messy? Would it require parts?

I found this that may work? Does this one seem to be correct: http://www.ebay.com/itm/130806508025

Is there a difference in quality between what I bought and these. The PCB seem thin and flimsy. The one I bought is stout. They are diffenately more expensive from the electronic salon but I like the fact they provide diograms and plenty of spec info to know what you are buying. There is a New York company that sells the same board that I have but active hi for $20. I really dont need 16 relays but thought I would have capacity for expansion

[JonW]

The board you linked would work perfect - I have the same board, but DIN mounted. They're not flimsy at all. The other board you described sounds like it would work as well. Since you bought the other through Amazon, I would think it would be an easy return process for your $20.

If you wanted to make your existing board work, you would need to remove all 16 of those 4 pin opto-couplers. You would then wire in a jumper across two of the (4) mounting points there, which would then allow you to use the normal input pins as active-high inputs. The bottom line is that you would bypass the opto-couplers (4 pin chips) which needs an active low to trigger and instead drive right into the ULN2803 (16 pin DIP) with the BCS 5V trigger.

[mdunlop]

The board you linked would work perfect - I have the same board, but DIN mounted. They're not flimsy at all. The other board you described sounds like it would work as well. Since you bought the other through Amazon, I would think it would be an easy return process for your $20.

If you wanted to make your existing board work, you would need to remove all 16 of those 4 pin opto-couplers. You would then wire in a jumper across two of the (4) mounting points there, which would then allow you to use the normal input pins as active-high inputs. The bottom line is that you would bypass the opto-couplers (4 pin chips) which needs an active low to trigger and instead drive right into the ULN2803 (16 pin DIP) with the BCS 5V trigger.

Looking at the board that really isn't that big of a task but time consuming. My time is worth more from that perspective when I consider the cost of the board. If I screw it up it's junk. I might as well return it and get what's right .

Thanks for all the support. You spend alot of time helping others. It's greatly appreciated.