New to ECC. Need wiring help

[Diver165]

I am wanting to use the BCS-460 to start my way into electric brewing. I've been a propane brewer for a while now but I want to brew inside and during the winter.

So...that brings me to the BCS-460. I want something I can build on. I'd like to start with the HLT. I want to use the BCS to control the HLT. Ideally I am going to use a 3000W - 4000W element. Once I get that mastered I'll move to the electric BK. I want to get the wiring right. Any one have a system that runs 2 4000W elements with temp probes?

[gbrewer]

Driver,

This is a very common setup here on the forums and in using the BCS460. The BCS460 will provide the switching to your SSR's to make your heating elements work with your HLT based off the wiring to the SSR. Since you are switching from propane to electric, have you considered the electrical power requirements inside your brewing space? Are you wanting to power two 4000W elements in the same HLT or are you just planning ahead for the BK? The wiring for what you describe is fairly simple providing you already have 240v power available in your brew space. If not, we can drop down the wattage a bit and still get you some wiring help for 120v.

[Diver165]

I've got 240v service available with GFI. That's the easy part IMHO. I would the the HLT and BK electric. And I eventually want to move towards HERMS. I want to monitor the process and control temps. But I'm not interested in full automation.

[clearwaterbrewer]

Start by reading lots of stuff in the Homebrewtalk forum on electric brewing...

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/


Here is a description of what I would suggest..

box - 12x12 a little small, 16x14 is a good size I have a Hoffman A-1614-CH, I would rather have stainless, but I like the quality, definitely get one with a 'inner panel' to mount things to. Feel free to ask someone for thoughts before drilling that first hole
power into box - permanent or disconnectable - easy to go from former to latter if you leave a little size of wire dictated by upstream breaker (suggest 6ga)
contactor in box - any voltage leaving box should have gone through this contactor - size dictated by upstream breaker, you can use the higher 'resistive load' rating, most 40A contactors are rated for 50A resistive
E-Stop on front panel - a real protection that cuts off above contactor, you push it and even the BCS should nto be able to power any 120/240 leaving the box
power distribution in box - circuit breakers/fuses protect SSR's from shorted elements, protect pumps, etc.. one for each SSR(30A), pump(3-4A), etc. Can have a circuit and breaker before the contactor that power the BCS, wireless, etc.. wire gets smaller ONLY after a circuit breaker with a smaller rating!
SSR's - a pair of 40A SSR's like ECC sells for each element (could use contactor for HLT if you use on/off control with several seconds between pulses)
Wire to/from SSR's and elements - dictated by breaker above..
relay boards - I suggest at least 4-channel to start... I find ones from eBay seller 'electronics-salon' work very good, stay away form ones that do not implicitly say "input is high = relay is on" (I have a YwRobot one that I cannot use because 0v=on)
power outlets - can be simple as 5-15 duplex for pump and other 120V, and dryer plugs for outlets, or nice Locking L5-15 and L6-20.. your choice
switches and indicators - I highly suggest HOA (hand-off-auto) switches with lights in them for your HLT, BK, and pump, and the mushroom e-stop mentioned above
Low voltage wiring inside of box - make it neat and organized, CAT5 works really good.. try to keep away from HV wiring, especially sensors..
Sensors - ECC sells good ones, or search this forum for 'thermistor' for lots of knowledge.
wiring sensors - you can get really fancy with connectors or start out with a hole and a piece of CAT5 cable going through it and solder and heat-shring the thermistors to the end.. can always add fancy connectors at box and at probes later..
network connectivity - wired or wireless... both have advantages and disadvantages.....
programming - quit your day job, LOL... it really is not that bad.. maybe do your first batch manually, and take notes, read how others document a process and a state here in the forum. I suggest a 'mash' process and a 'boil' process. It will take some playing to understand the hows and whys, but no way around that one...
HMI - fun part that you can spend a lot of time on, requires some sort of webserver that is accessible from machines that will control/monitor the BCS

-mike

[Diver165]

Doh! I purchased a Hoffman 12x10x6 box (A12N106) for 30 bucks off eBay. I guess my good deal wasn't so good.

I think I may save some space by not mounting the recepticals in the enclosure but put rather putting color coded pigtails with twist lock plug-ends. I'm looking to do the KISS approach for the panel. On/Off for pump(s), a master On/Off, temp probe connectors and an E-Stop.

The thing that catches my eye with the BCS is that I am a nut for gadgets and network connectivity. If given the choice of a reguar coffee pot for instance...I'll choose the one with wifi (lol). SO, it's only fitting that my brew stand have wifi. It's not about the automation but rather the ability to monitor it from where ever and the ...because I can factor.

[clearwaterbrewer]

if I were going to try to fit in a 12x10, I would try the following


Make a couple cardboard ones as practice (maybe Fedex or USPS boxes?) to test fit things...

You can still have 1 input (cord or receptavle),2 240V, and 4 120V outlets on the bottom.. watch your wire routing to keep neat.

The 460 has the benefit of having connectors only on one side, you can velcro/adhesive tie-wrap block and a zip-tie to mount it to the side wall of the cabinet, cut the end off of an extension cord, run those wires to the input side of your contactor, plug the BCS power supply brick into that, use a sticky tie-wrap ont it


4 SSR's will take up a lot of real estate.. contactor on the HLT may save a little room... really still your choice..

here is a drawing:

[clearwaterbrewer]

Here is a guy putting a BCS in a 12x12..

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/12x12x ... it-268070/