keeping gas valve components dry

[banjolawyer]

ASCO valves are described as water tight, but I'm presently opting for Honeywell valves because of their safety features. Maybe ASCO has a water tight valve that is normally closed and will close if the standing pilot goes out, but I'm not aware of it.

I've spent a good bit of time studying the Honeywell direct spark valve system, but have become really concerned about potential cycling issues between the Honeywell Control Module (trial and locout times). So for now, I'm going to try out a Honeywell valve and standing pilot with a thermocouple. One of the issues I continue to struggle with, however, is the Honeywell warnings to keep the valves dry.

For example, the manual for the VR8300A models states

Choose Gas Control Location
Do not locate the gas control where it can be affected by steam cleaning, high humidity, dripping water, corrosive chemicals, dust or grease accumulation, or excessive heat. To ensure proper operation, follow these guidelines:
• Locate gas control in a well ventilated area.
• Mount gas control high enough above the cabinet bottom to avoid exposure to flooding or splashing water.
• Make sure the ambient temperature does not exceed the ambient temperature ratings for each component.
• Cover gas control if appliance is cleaned with water, steam, or chemicals or to avoid dust and grease accumulation.
• Avoid locating gas control where exposure to corrosive chemical fumes or dripping water is likely.

The frame I'm working on has B3 "tippy dump" style harnesses holding the kettles above the frame, and I'd like to come up with a design for my gas piping, valves and burners where I can spray everything down an not have to worry about getting the gas valves wet.

One solution I've imagined is to have some sort of quick disconnect in the gas piping below the valve, so that at clean up, I just disconnect and remove a section containing everything from the valve to the burner. But I'm not familiar with whether such disconnects exist, particularly ones that are acceptable from a safety perspective, or permitted by applicable codes which is what I'm shooting for.

The other potential solution I've imagined is a custom designed box that will fit around the valve and has holes for the piping and thermocouple to enter/exit. And I imagine this box to have a hinge on one side and latch on the other, or something, that would allow the box to be removed to access the valve when needed.

Any thoughts on these issues?

[RonRock]

Sorry about the double post. Something went crazy. No option to delete.

[RonRock]

I understand your concern with the gas valves, I have also pondered this issue. As I'm sure others have. I am in the process of building my brewstand as well. I have three gas valves all clustered together with the intention of making a box around them as an enclosure to protect from water and also to serve as a heat shield from the radiant heat coming off the burners. I can say that it will not be watertight but hopefully water resistant enough to keep things dry. Although I have seen many builds where the valves are left exposed and have not heard about valve failures due to wetness, so hopefully a moot point in the end. Perhaps Honeywell is mostly concerned with the valves being submerged or flooded while wet and shorting out the electronics. I'd venture to guess that getting them wet from a bit of cleaning is not going to damage them. I have gas valves in my shop that go from freezing to warm regularly since I don't heat the shop unless I'm in it. Also have a gas valve of the same type "Honeywell direct spark (not sure of model number ATM)" in the pool heater that sets outside all winter long. It is inside the heater box, but none the less outside in pretty harsh conditions. And it has worked flawlessly for 5 or more years.

I'll also say that a removable manifold will be much more difficult to manage than it would appear at first glance. There is a lot of wires and plumbing going out of three of these valves.

Just as an FYI, I have for sale 2 Asco's and 2 Baso pilot valves for sale. I was intending to use them, but opted for the direct spark system. Anybody interested LMK.

[gbrewer]

I would take a look at some of the sculptures that Morebeer.com or Sabco make. They both use gas valves that are hard plumbed and don't seem to have an issue with them. I have used the same gas valve for some time now and it is out in the open when I brew. It still works fine. I would caution you from spraying everything down when you are complete with your brew session. Most of the burners are cast iron. Cast Iron and Water = Rust.

[banjolawyer]

Ya, I really would like to find out if there's a solution for being able to remove the everything from point X to the burner without having to unscrew pipes and test for leaks at each reconnect. I'm learning pretty fast though, now that I'm approaching that point in putting the system together. That's how it is with me... one step at a time. And I know the Rocket City Brewers who taught me to brew have always considered me among the most likely to get electrocuted, have a gas or chemical explosion, etc.... So I'm trying to be safety conscious.

Maybe some type of durable bag with a drawstring at the opening could be fashioned to slip around the burner and down around the valve with the string drawn tight prior to such a washdown. I'm just thinking out loud.

I'm also struggling with the issue that the burners need to be up underneath and a certain distance from the kettle bottom when in use, but in order to tip the kettles on the tippy/dump pivots, the burners need to be out of the way due to the circumference of the kettles' swing radius. I've been discussing with a buddy of mine who is a mechanical engineer the idea of being able to rotate and fix the main gas line in two different positions, which would mean that the burners that tee off the main line would be in place in position one and out of the way in position two. I'm sure we'll figure something out. I'm also going to be consulting with an HVAC company and the guys at out local air/gas supply about these issue over the next couple of weeks.

I'll post pics when the system is finished. I think you guys will like it.

[gbrewer]

I have given this some thought as I am always interested in building a better mouse trip as well. In order to achieve this, you would need some sort of gas disconnect as well as an electrical disconnect.

Perhaps putting the disconnect for the gas on the input side of the gas valve may work best? You could remove the the burner and gas valve as one piece. I know the banjo burners have a few screws on the side of them. It would be easy enough to find thumb screws that fasten to a custom made bracket. This would be the option I took since I wouldn't want to mess with the electronic ignition (or standing pilot) plumbing each time.

I really think you are worrying about nothing here but let us know how your build comes along.