Pre-planning stages of BCS based homebrewery

[pngaudioguy]

Revision 3.
I really don't like the cramped connectors, so flipped the panel back horizontal just to have a 16x8 panel space instead of 12x8.
Rearranged the buttons, etc. I think I'll use a lighted E-Stop button instead of button and a light. Just a few dollars extra, but cleaner.
For this revision moving the BCS and associated stuff to a second enclosure (TBD) for brew/ferment use, connection with DSUB 25pin for data interconnects. The only justifications I can think of for splitting the knobs from the SSR's, etc is separation of voltages and if I had two separate brew rigs that I wanted to run from one control panel (say propane fired and electric, which isn't going to happen.)
Oh yeah, I changed the labels to HLT and BK instead of MLT, since it's actually the Brew Kettle that will have the second element... not sure why I had MLT on the brain.




For anyone who's wondering, this is the enclosure I'm planning to use unless I can find a better deal than $59.99 - http://www.pioneerbreaker.com/product_p/enc-16x12x8.htm

[pngaudioguy]

Well, I was planning to wait to start buying and building after I moved back to the US next year, but... I stumbled across an opportunity from a catering supply company in Germany for some brand new 100 liter (26.4 gallon) 1.2mm thick (18 gauge) 304 stainless steel kettles with lids. One each for HLT, MLT, and BK; all 3 delivered to my door for 182.6 euro ($227.92 at today's rate.) Pictures to follow once they arrive, of course.

[pngaudioguy]

The stainless kettles arrived today. Here are all 3 sitting on the dining room table with a yardstick for size reference:


You can see just a bit of imperfections on the finish from the flash. The dog helping out with inspection and measurement:


Seriously good sized stock pots! 19.5" inside diameter, 19.25" inside height, 13.5 pounds each empty. Based on how they sit on the table, the stand will need to be 2' by 6' to accommodate them. The welds are well done, and there don't appear to be any seams anywhere for collecting germs. The rest of the build is going to be a few months off, but like I said above, I couldn't pass up this deal!

[oakbarn]

Sweet!

[bcrawfo2]

I love those pots and that's a great price
I just finished a panel.
I would suggest a giant enclosure. Make sure you drill enough holes for growth. I put in slur connections for temp, valves and float. I think 10 in total.
I also set myself up for control of three pumps, not just two...even tho I have two now
I would look at the cost of doing a 50 amp instead of 30 so you didn't have to worry about switching between elements.
The one thing I would change in my setup is to not use a combo light/buzzer for my alarm. It would be nice to be able to turn off buzzer (with a switch) but still have the light as an alarm

[Broph]

Just an FYI... Just received the latest issue of BYO - Jan/Feb 2015... There is a great article on a BCS based system. The article is 12 pages. Lots of pics, schematics and other useful info.

[pngaudioguy]

Broph - thanks for the heads up, I'll have to check that out and see if it adds to my ideas.

bcrawfo2 - I'm setting it up to be able to have 2 elements on each of the HLT and boil kettle, so I'm already planning 50A and expecting to select one kettle at a time. I drink copious quantities of this liquid, as do some of my friends, so a kettle volume upgrade is likely in the future.
With the D-Sub connector, I can have access to every connection on the BCS that I'm planning to put in a separate enclosure with the wifi unit. There's plenty of space for 4 more DIN inputs on XLR's if I want to add them with the current layout.
I'd been contemplating the whole buzzer/light thing, too. I'm not one to go running off to the other end of the house during brew day, and I imagine that buzzer will get annoying. Separating them out as you describe sounds pretty clever, then if I do end up leaving for some reason, I could just flip the switch to turn the buzzer on... hm...
Three pumps - other than not having to move hoses, is there a benefit? At $140+ per pump, I can swap hoses around on those Camlocks a whole lot of times before I reach that many dollars of value I drink coffee while brewing and beer after, so muddled brain not an issue.

Based on continued reading on here (I've made it through the first couple pages of threads in each topic so far), I'm leaning towards not using the 50A disconnect and just having a pigtail on my box for the main supply. It's smaller, it still disconnects at the wall end, and it saves close to $200 (assuming buying connectors new and not waiting around for them to show up on eBay.)
Also, I like those proximity sensors that CJKogut is using on his sight glass (http://forum.embeddedcc.com/viewtopic.p ... mity#p2366). I'm considering using two DIN's for those as dry fire protection on the kettles with elements.

No idea is a bad one, so thanks for all the suggestions!

[oakbarn]

I have an alarm light and a siren wired as an out (110v) when the alarm sounds. I have the siren and the rotating light siren wired so the both come on at the same time. but I have a switch before the siren. When I am doing cleaning and I want an siren alarm, I use the siren. Regardless of where I am I can hear it. On a brew day, I just have a rotating light as the siren is very annoying (switch off the siren). In most cases I just use the short alarm but sometimes I want the one you have to cancel. The BCS allows you to make the choice.

[pngaudioguy]

Ooops - still not BCS related pictures yet, but ended up snagging 2 of these 9kW 240V stainless heating elements for $25 each... Is there some guidance to how much distance has to be below an element in the kettles? Not as critical in the boil kettle, but I'd like to slam the HLT element as close to the base as possible so I can also keep the HERMS coil low - minimize the amount of water required to completely cover the coil for faster ramp times.

I assume there has to be some space for circulation, right?

[JonW]

I assume there has to be some space for circulation, right?

You're fine going as low as you want, just don't let it touch the kettle. I'd try to keep about 1/2" - 1" between the element and kettle. You probably want to do continuous recirculation so you don't get temperature stratification.