Pre-planning stages of BCS based homebrewery

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pngaudioguy
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Pre-planning stages of BCS based homebrewery

Post by pngaudioguy »

So, I'm starting to plan the next phase of my homebrewing build. I've read through all of Kal's stuff on electricbrewery, and the information over at ebrewsupply based on the BCS systems. I think the BCS-460 will more than suffice for my needs.

My intended configuration is a single tier electric HERMS system, with dual pumps, based around 20 gallon containers for typical 10 gallon batches. I don't plan to automate the pumps, etc, but I do want reliable temperature control for strike water and mash (including automated stepped mashes eventually), etc.

I've pieced together a system with dual control - BCS and manual. It's pretty pricey. Everything I've read is that the current firmware revisions are stable enough that manual backup isn't really necessary. I know user JonW mentions a fairly minimal setup, but I haven't been able to figure out what exactly minimal is. So, what do I actually need? As I understand, the bare minimum is:

1 watertight enclosure large enough to contain components + connections
1 appropriately rated SSR per element + heatsink
1 temp sensor per vessel (HLT, Mash, Boil) + cooler output if desired
1 fuse/circuit breaker appropriately sized for the whole kit
1 fuse/circuit breaker per element
appropriate connnectors for the elements, pumps, inputs, sensors, etc.

I tried to search the forums but, "minimum" "minimal" "barebones" and other searches attempting to ascertain what the bare minimum system one can configure are kept coming up empty. Does this seem viable? Perhaps a mod could see fit to sticky an appropriate thread pertaining to what the minimum configuration is? I'm sure I'm not the only one contemplating a BCS system that wonders if he has to spend $1000+ to actually get it running properly.
pngaudioguy
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Re: Pre-planning stages of BCS based homebrewery

Post by pngaudioguy »

So, I've spent the better part of my downtime today thinking about / sketching this up / putting together a spreadsheet. Based on other users' comments in various parts of the forum, I've decided a few things.

1) I know I definitely want an alarm buzzer that can be triggered at stage transitions, and an easy way to reset it. I'll use the ladder logic method described in the wiki and here for that with a 110V buzzer and momentary button to reset.
2) I want an emergency stop in case something goes haywire and I don't have time to grab the laptop to turn stuff off - quick mushroom pushbutton with red LED that pops on to clearly indicate the lockout condition (wired using ebrewsupply's DIY kit diagram.)
3) I want to have an "Input" or whatever you want to call it momentary contact button to advance to the next stage when user input is required - again so I don't have to fiddle with the computer. I can look at the screen and see that I'm moving from mash to boil for instance, make sure hoses are routed appropriately and the correct pump is on, then hit the button to advance to the next stage.
4) Because I ultimately would like to have the option to add a second element to each circuit and upgrade to a 1BBL system, I need a selector to operate one or the other element to keep my power draw under 50A. I'm planning on using one 5500 and one 4500 when I get to that stage for a total of 10000W. Assuming 230V, this puts me at 43.5A plus a pump and miscellanous (say 44A). That would take 45 minutes to bring 32 gallons of tap water to a 148 mash, 11 minutes to pull up to 170 mash-out (depending on style), and 22 minutes to bring that up to a boil. I consider those values acceptable. I know how things around my house go, and I know I won't be brewing simultaneous batches or back to back batches, so I don't consider choosing MLT or HLT to be a compromise with a HERMS system.
5) I've got a little guy that's going to be getting more and more mobile. I don't need an element getting fried out on me when I'm not around. Adding a key lockout and power LED will set me back $7...
6) I want to know when the system is trying to power a pump or element. 4 of those big 22mm LED's are only $12, plus a couple bucks for wire.

At this point, I might as well just spend the $18 plus wire for 4 more 3-way select switches to have the 100% auto/off/manual option. After putting everything into said spreadsheet and eliminating the extra stuff I don't need that was in the ebrewsupply kit, I shaved almost $300 off the cost (with forward compatibility for 1BBL with the addition of just 2 more each of SSR's, contactors, breakers, L6-30 outlets, and a bit of wire. Not having Visio, I drafted up a control panel plan in Photoshop, and this is what I'm thinking (16"Wx12"Hx8"D enclosure):
Image
Blue circles - pump on LED
Yellow circles - element on LED
Green circle - power on LED
Red circles - Alarm buzzer, E-stop LED, and mushroom button
Black circles (except key) - Auto/Off/On switches
Gray circles - momentary contact pushbutton

Of course, all of this has to wait until the military moves me back from Belgium... I sold my brewing kit when I moved here, and don't actually regret it (though I have missed brewing, the local selection more than makes up for it.) The fermentors/kegs/kegerator/mill/yeast harvesting stuff/etc are all in storage, just cleaned up my brew 1.0 system.

There's an empty hole in my faceplate template below the "Input" button. Any suggestions from current BCS users as to what would be useful to include on the faceplate that I might have overlooked?

EDIT: I just remembered. All that "stuff" on the faceplate only adds about $75 dollars to the cost. Make it an even $100 with wire and odds/ends. Less than a month of savings ;) - Second edit for moving image to subfolder on dropbox.
Last edited by pngaudioguy on Sun Nov 30, 2014 4:10 am, edited 1 time in total.
pngaudioguy
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Re: Pre-planning stages of BCS based homebrewery

Post by pngaudioguy »

Thinking out loud... got to love it. Woke up wondering which trappist ale made me think of that patchwork layout anyway... If I flip the panel vertical, it looks a lot cleaner.
I think I was copying the ebrewsupply guys' panel, and when I looked back at electricbrewery realized that I like the vertical look better. This groups the panel nicely, I think.
Image
Edited image link.
Last edited by pngaudioguy on Sun Nov 30, 2014 4:11 am, edited 1 time in total.
JonW
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Re: Pre-planning stages of BCS based homebrewery

Post by JonW »

I like the vertical/horizontal alignment better. :)

If you don't need to fill all the spaces for switches immediately, but you want to plan for other options, you can always pre-drill the holes and put one of those chrome filler plugs in it.
brahn
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Re: Pre-planning stages of BCS based homebrewery

Post by brahn »

I don't have any experience with an electric brewery, I don't think I can really help you with the design. I'm enjoying watching your thought process though. :)
pngaudioguy
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Re: Pre-planning stages of BCS based homebrewery

Post by pngaudioguy »

Thanks guys. The more I look at it, the more I like the vertical layout, too. There's plenty of space below the bottom row for an extra row of buttons should I feel the need to add them, and since I'll be using a punch for the holes, I'm not worried about adding holes later on if I need to and I'd rather not have to look at filler plugs. :lol:

I've gotten all the DIN rail components drawn to scale, just have to start arranging and thinking through the internal connections now.
pngaudioguy
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Re: Pre-planning stages of BCS based homebrewery

Post by pngaudioguy »

OK. Making all that fit into a 12"Wx16"Hx8"D enclosure was a bear! Considerations:

1) Heat rises, keep the computer (BCS-460) towards the bottom as a precaution.
2) There needs to be ample room at the bottom of the enclosure for the 4x L6-30 element outputs (48mm/~2" internal depth.)
3) I want the 63A contactor that switches the whole panel as close to the plug as possible.
4) The terminals down the middle will make for easy interconnections.
5) The element SSR's will mount to an external heatsink, and the top makes the most sense (see consideration 1.)
6) The buzzer SSR doesn't need a heatsink.
7) I wanted at least 5/8"-3/4" between rails or walls for ease of wiring.

What I haven't checked... how the plugs will fit onto the bottom of the enclosure...

Result:
Image
Edited image link.
Last edited by pngaudioguy on Sun Nov 30, 2014 4:11 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Pre-planning stages of BCS based homebrewery

Post by pngaudioguy »

So, there was a lot more space on the 16x8 side than there is on the 12x8 side... Not quite how I'd envisioned it, but looks like it'll fit - barely!
For the concentric circles, inner is plug diameter outer is flange diameter. Network and temp sensors will all use Neutrik D-series panel mounts.
Image
Edited image link.
Last edited by pngaudioguy on Sun Nov 30, 2014 4:12 am, edited 1 time in total.
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oakbarn
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Re: Pre-planning stages of BCS based homebrewery

Post by oakbarn »

I have my BCS and wall wart in its own enclosure. I also have the DIN (Momentary) and Locked Buttons/Switches in their own box. The SSRs and 12 and 24 vdc power are in a box by themselves as well. My BCS is near the router and sort of out of the way as you do not need to mess with it once set up. My SSRs and 12 and 24vdc box is set high where it is not accessible by fellow brew buddies or children. Again, unless there is an issue, you do not need access on a brew day (I have yet to mess with mine after I got everything wired.) The DINs are easy to get to as those are what I use on Brew day. I do have my Pumps wired so that I can have manual control if I want to turn them off without going to the computer, but it is AND logic. The Pump must be ASSERTED (on) in the BCS AND my locking lighted 22mm 110vac switch (http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_ ... cts_id=223). I might not have wired it that way if I was starting "fresh" but I already had a manual control panel and it was much easier to just add the SSR in line. I am glad it worked out as it is nice to have some quick manual control on a pump so I can turn it off without thinking.

I would suggest that if you are going to place your BCS remote, you have the power to the Wall Wart switched. It is easier to do a "power reset" if you do that. There are times you may want to reset the power. I have even considered a LAN based power outlet. If you have that, you could even do a "power reset" from anywhere you have access. I know in one forum post someone was doing a remote firmware update and needed to do a "power reset" and could not. Fortunately for him, there was a power outage and the "reset" was done for him. :D

I also like that I have illuminated switches in different colors for my pumps. It is easier to see my "Blue Pump" is on rather than the "MLT Pump". My pump covers are all matched color coded to the lighted switch.
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Re: Pre-planning stages of BCS based homebrewery

Post by pngaudioguy »

As I've been reading through the forum and having various ideas about how the BCS could be used, I've been contemplating splitting the BCS with a wifi device (so I don't have to have it in use where LAN is accessible) into one enclosure. A DB25 connector could be used to have access to all the sensors in a separate compartment, with ready access to inexpensive cables to run from the BCS to a control panel, etc. TEMP/DIN/OUT I/O could all be run through the DB25 on a "personally standardized" pinout setup. Then, I could use the BCS to eventually control fermentation fridges and serving fridges most of the time. On brew day, I could just switch to my other power interface, load my brew program, and get going. If I decide later to add some other controlled devices, I could just create a new relay panel accessing the appropriate sensors and outputs and program the BCS accordingly.

Speaking of relays, has anybody used something like these to control buzzers, pumps, etc?
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Fuj ... 252bgnc%3d
The datasheet says it's rated for 6A at 250V (should easily handle 110V fridges, pumps, buzzers etc with spades to spare) and only draws 4mA current on the 5V coil. Sounds like a perfect fit for those non PWM necessary tasks to me. Well under the 20mA control out rating of the BCS...

If I may ask - why did you separate the inputs/switches from the SSR's etc? I'm assuming flexibility? Out of curiosity, how would you wire the pumps if you were starting from scratch? Have you ever needed to do a manual override (forgot to assert a pump output in a stage for instance?) The color coded pumps / LED's is a good idea for quick recognition. I definitely don't plan to put the BCS somewhere I can't get to.
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