ECC Forum

Hi everone..i am new here and have few queries does anybody know of a tri clover 1.5" compatible float switch for the side wall of kettle? Switches I got are MPT with wires on the outside, apparently intended for use with a coupler or nipple, and will not fit through a triclover FPT adapter because float is too large. Tried removing the float but once the switch is threaded into the adapter.

This is an alternative for the Blichmann float switch. Although I have two Blichmann 20 gal HLT & Mash tun and a 30 gallon boil kettle with electric heating I decided to use an external capacitive switch on the water level column. I use three on the HLT kettle, one for high level shut off in case of an over fill condition as I have automated valves that may fail! The lower switch is for minimum water level before energizing the heating element and the same on the boil kettle. The middle one on the HLT & Mash is to shut off the incoming water for the the batch size. I made brackets out of 1" square stainless steel tubing. Cut one side off right at the corners. Drilled & tapped one side for the key handle thumb screws to adjust it. On the opposite side I placed a piece of rubber on the interior for friction & vibration damping. The side facing the glass has a 1/2" hole for the 12mm sensor to mount. I purchased these nearly 5 years ago and they work just fine! Although the price has went up (doesn't everything) you don't have more parts to clean inside your kettles! I use a normally open type switch and use the BCS-462 logic to reverse it if needed. The LED lights when covered. I put various water batch sizes in the kettles and marked the sensor locations. I would of added more switches but they are nearly as expensive ($65.00). The model I use is C1A12AP1-M by Stedham Electronics you will find them here...
http://www.stedham.com/cap_12mm.html

Hope that helps!

Gizmo wrote:This is an alternative for the Blichmann float switch. Although I have two Blichmann 20 gal HLT & Mash tun and a 30 gallon boil kettle with electric heating I decided to use an external capacitive switch on the water level column. I use three on the HLT kettle, one for high level shut off in case of an over fill condition as I have automated valves that may fail! The lower switch is for minimum water level before energizing the heating element and the same on the boil kettle. The middle one on the HLT & Mash is to shut off the incoming water for the the batch size. I made brackets out of 1" square stainless steel tubing. Cut one side off right at the corners. Drilled & tapped one side for the key handle thumb screws to adjust it. On the opposite side I placed a piece of rubber on the interior for friction & vibration damping. The side facing the glass has a 1/2" hole for the 12mm sensor to mount. I purchased these nearly 5 years ago and they work just fine! Although the price has went up (doesn't everything) you don't have more parts to clean inside your kettles! I use a normally open type switch and use the BCS-462 logic to reverse it if needed. The LED lights when covered. I put various water batch sizes in the kettles and marked the sensor locations. I would of added more switches but they are nearly as expensive ($65.00). The model I use is C1A12AP1-M by Stedham Electronics you will find them here...
http://www.stedham.com/cap_12mm.html

Hope that helps!

How about a pix?