Brewery Remodel For BCS

Suggestions, Problems, Availability, etc. Everything is up for discussion.
rabeb25
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Location: Albertville, MN
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Brewery Remodel For BCS

Post by rabeb25 »

Well I had to do some reconfiguring due to the arrival of the BCS. Its not complete yet, still awaiting a few parts, some key and some pretty. Basically I started with this:
Image

With a non-finished control panel that looked like this:
Image

Did some re-arranging and ended up with this:
Image

With a control panel like:
Image


Whats left to do??

~Clean up the floor (thinking epoxy coat actually)

~Get the SS top and back splash cut (for table and wall behind equipment)

~Get the touchscreen, then get it running (was supposed to be here tomorrow, but awesome UPS likes to reschedule my deliveries)

~Actually be able to BREW!

There are more pics here http://rabeb25.mikesdecks.com/BEER/New%20Brew%202/

Any questions or concerns don't hesitate

Bryan

p.s. My camera sucks, and I suck at using it. When she is all done I will take some pictures with my wife's nice camera.
slimer
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Joined: Fri Jan 09, 2009 9:36 am

Re: Brewery Remodel For BCS

Post by slimer »

Looks like a solid setup. HERMs, correct?
rabeb25
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Re: Brewery Remodel For BCS

Post by rabeb25 »

Yup, HERMS it is.
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bsfixit
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Re: Brewery Remodel For BCS

Post by bsfixit »

I would be concerned about whether or not the heat sink, being the back of the metal box, is enough to cool it.
If you run 240 through those things.. which it looks like it does. one heater for BK and HLT
how are you heating the HLT with 110 or 240 ? do the SSR's get hot? It looks great though ! It gave me alot of ideas

EDIT: looking at the rest of the pics I see you are using 240 .. do they get hot? have you run it yet?
thermal paste on the back of the SSR's?
rabeb25
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Re: Brewery Remodel For BCS

Post by rabeb25 »

I just finished up my first session with the BCS. All I have to say is wow!!! This being my first time I flew though it with ease, hell I didn't have to even step foot in the brew room until I had to sparge!

BS: Yup 240v, I monitored the SSr's during the session and they got warm to the touch. I certainly am not worried about it. I just did thermal paste, and screwed them down tight.

Things I need to do now that I have brewed with it...

Get my pids under control, they overshoot about 5f per step (which is exactly what my old system did)

Get my lautering and boiling/cooling process down better.. still needs some work

Overall though went great, eff% stayed the same, but time dramatically decreased and freed me up to do other things.
Gator Brewer
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Re: Brewery Remodel For BCS

Post by Gator Brewer »

Could you tell me how you wired up your electric BK and HLT (element to outlet), possibly a close up picture or parts list? It looks like you are using weatherproof gang housings where the element is wired to the keg... I like that idea :D

I am in the process of getting my parts together to upgrade my brewery and just haven't exactly figured out how to wire the element to my keggle and eventual control box. I have looked at a bunch of forum posts and "how-tos" around the web and still not certain about how I want to do it or more importantly how it NEEDS to be done for everything to be safe.

Thanks!
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bsfixit
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Re: Brewery Remodel For BCS

Post by bsfixit »

Gator, are you going to use 110 V or 220 V elements?
Gator Brewer
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Re: Brewery Remodel For BCS

Post by Gator Brewer »

i am going to use 220v elements.
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bsfixit
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Re: Brewery Remodel For BCS

Post by bsfixit »

Gator Brewer wrote:i am going to use 220v elements.
Its pretty simple actually. I dont know how he used the Gang box, but I like that idea too.
you get your 220 v plug and outlet (install one or have an electrician install it for you)
When the outlet is wired to the load center, its phase A and phase B , each phase is 110 Volts. This means you would have 4 wires going
from the load center to the outlet. 2 black wires, hot, sometimes its one black and one red wire , 1 Neutral white and a ground Green or bare copper. When you put the 2 phases together in a
220v outlet the voltage is doubled. Now you have your 220 v plug that has 3 wires. one hot one neutral and one ground. you run the ground and neutral to the element , The ground should be connected to the elements base.I used a copper sheet that I drilled a hole in it with a hole saw.
and the other wire is wired into a box through the solid state relay then back to the other side of the 220v element next to the white wire.
When the BCS turns on the relay it completes the connection and current is allowed to flow to the element.
Ask the folks at the lowes or HD what size wire you need to use for 220. Maybe 8 gauge?
I hope that answers the question I think you were asking.
Brett
Gator Brewer
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Re: Brewery Remodel For BCS

Post by Gator Brewer »

That does help indeed! I am going to try and plug the element into my laundry room (unplug dryer from wall) for now and testing purposes but here soon have it plug into my "black box" that in turn is powered by a 220v outlet...

I now know how to wire the element to the 220 and relay but i still am just curious how he used the gang housing. The weatherproof housing looks not to be the metal version so i was wondering how he did the grounding to the keggle and mounting of the element... I think it is something i would like to duplicate.

Thanks again!
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