Stainless Steel Float Switch

[bsfixit]

After brewing RIMS style last thursday , I want to use my SS float switch to control the march pump's SSR. this would turn the pump on when the level gets too high,pump wort or water, depending on the step in the brew, back into the Mash tun. I do this so the mash tun is heated up to the same temp as the water. ( 15.5 gallon keggle w/false bottom)
I could do that by wiring it inline with the SSR control and the BCS right? A DIN would only force it to the next state and I would run out of states before the water was up to mash in temp or before the mash was complete. This also keeps the heaters covered with water or wort at all times.

My setup right now uses gravity to feed wort/water from the mash tun into the HLT where the pump puts it back into the mash tun.
TIA
Brett

EDIT: answered my own question below

[bsfixit]

Since I could not find my DVOM, I posted the question, I figured I would just try it.. It works fine in series with one of the SSR control wires.
Now I just need to work on an adjustable bracket for the HLT... I will look for something stainless otherwise, I was thinking of soldering a nut inside of a copper pipe. With some kind of clamp to raise and lower the pipe. Any other people found ways to mount a level switch in a SS pot? I would like to see more ideas
TIA

[missing_link]

Since I could not find my DVOM, I posted the question, I figured I would just try it.. It works fine in series with one of the SSR control wires.
Now I just need to work on an adjustable bracket for the HLT... I will look for something stainless otherwise, I was thinking of soldering a nut inside of a copper pipe. With some kind of clamp to raise and lower the pipe. Any other people found ways to mount a level switch in a SS pot? I would like to see more ideas
TIA

This will be one of my projects this coming friday night so that it can be used for a brew on Saturday.

I have a hole in the lid of my mash tun that would work for lowering a pipe through and clamping from above to set the level but then I cannot open the lid without raising the float system first. Of course once mashed in there is no reason to open the lid.

Linc

[bsfixit]

thats a good idea thanks , I wanted to brew tomorrow, but I got a curb rash on my polished aluminum wheel on my mustang. so I am sanding them down. It takes forever.
I am going to lowes for wet sanding paper , I will look for something for the level sensor bracket too..

[wrupp53150]

As an FYI, Morebeer has thier float switch on sale today for $85 as the deal of the day.

I however have picked up two of the SS floaters on ebay for about $35 delivered.

[bsfixit]

So far I have mounted the float switch nut in the bottom of a CPVC pipe, I have been busy with replacing my pool pump so I was not able to get going on the mounting of the switch. I think a spacer near the bottom and a U -bolt at the top would work well to keep it in place. I will put up a pic when I get around to finishing that part. it would be simple to adjust it , even put graduated marks on the pipe for different volumes.
Everyone have a great sunday!
Brett

[gbrewer]

Just a note revisiting this thread. Using a stainless steel float switch with the BCS is very easy and adds even more automation. I utilize mine hooked as a din to the BCS utilized the onboard 5volts.

My float switch is located in the base of my hot liquor tank. It shuts the pump off and moves to the next step once the HLT is empty.

[bsfixit]

Hey gbrewer! long time no see. I took a little break from brewing due to back troubles. I plan to start up again soon.My use of the float switches goes like this: I set the timer before I go to bed to start the process. one float switch connected to a water valve from a spigot through carbon filters, fills the HLT, then begins heating the mash water once its full and the water valve shuts off. once heated to strike temps the pump turns on pumping the hot water to the Mash Tun. Then the second float switch turns off the pump when the mash liquid falls to a set point in the HLT just above the heaters. More mash water drains from the Mash Tun until it turns the pump on again., pumping the mash water back to the Mash tun. This cycle continues for an hour. keeping temps and levels in the HLT set so I dont even have to go outside until its ready to change a hose to pump the wort into the BK and boil the wort. I crush the grain and add it to the mash tun the night before.

[ballz50401]

Hey gbrewer! long time no see. I took a little break from brewing due to back troubles. I plan to start up again soon.My use of the float switches goes like this: I set the timer before I go to bed to start the process. one float switch connected to a water valve from a spigot through carbon filters, fills the HLT, then begins heating the mash water once its full and the water valve shuts off. once heated to strike temps the pump turns on pumping the hot water to the Mash Tun. Then the second float switch turns off the pump when the mash liquid falls to a set point in the HLT just above the heaters. More mash water drains from the Mash Tun until it turns the pump on again., pumping the mash water back to the Mash tun. This cycle continues for an hour. keeping temps and levels in the HLT set so I dont even have to go outside until its ready to change a hose to pump the wort into the BK and boil the wort. I crush the grain and add it to the mash tun the night before.

So...how well did you get this process to work. My goal is to reach over to my phone early in the morning to start the process of heating/circulating my strike water and have it ready for grains when I finally roll out of bed. I'll be using 6 ss float switches. High and Low level switches for each vessel. The high float switch will be adjustable and calibrated for flexibility.