Mechanical Valves

[disco stu]

Hi All,
I'm currently looking to automate my all grain set up to a rims(brewers hardware) and have a few questions concerning Mechanical Valves.

I'm currently looking at the KLD 20S http://www.electric-valve.com/20-1.html

These valves come with a few different options. 2, 3 and 5 wires. Can someone please explain which one would be more suited for the BCS?

I want my system to be able to brew up to 10gallon batches. Will a 1/2" bore be suitable or is it worth going to 3/4"

What voltage valves do people commonly use? I was thinking of going 12v but I have noticed most people on here seem to be using 24v. Is there a reason for this?

Cheers

[JonW]

1/2" is more than sufficient for 10 gallon batches. Get the 12 volt versions. Regardless of what version you get, you'll need to get a relay board to drive them. The 12V, 3 wire, KLD 20 SB3 is what you want. You wire all the grounds together and the using a relay board with NO & NC contacts is used to switch which lead is powered for open and closed.

This relay board works great: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Eight-8-Relay-M ... 0609010929

I use those valves and relay board in my build here: http://www.embeddedcc.com/forum/viewtop ... f=16&t=342

[Squeeky]

If it helps I'm trying to get together a group order for motorized valves myself. See the thread I just started on HBT.

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/there- ... es-317050/

KLD valves were roughly the same price as OCSSYS when ordered at a Qty of 20, but found another company that can offer similar valves for $43, but looking to get a bigger order together to drop the cost a little. I'd love to order enough to make then $38-$40 a piece after shipping and fees.

Squeeky

[JonW]

Careful with some of the other valves. Two features that the KLD ones have that other similar looking ones do not have are a manual thumb wheel in case you have a problem with the motor (I have never used it, but it's nice to know I can) and a valve position window. The window shows you a horizontal or vertical line to let you know if the valve is open or closed.

Edit: Just looked at the ones in your link. Those are the same that a friend just bought. Compared to the KLD ones: no manual control, no position indicator and the motor leads were only about 8", so every valve needed wire extensions added to them (KLD's were 36", so only one of my valves needed extensions). On the plus side, those valves do open and close a little quicker than the KLD ones.

[Squeeky]

JonW, Thank you for the quick reply.

The information you provided is great, I haven't been able to compare the two models side by side. Would you mind sharing the contact info of the individual that ordered the Tianjin models? My personal setup I was hoping to use patch cables between valves and CP, so personally I'd prefer the shorter leads. The window and manual control on the other hand could be a benefit. Just have to determine if it's worth an extra $10+ per valve.

Depending on the interest it gets, I may be able to upgrade to the KLD models, but would assume 50+ valves in order to do that, which I don't really have the capital for.

[bbrally]

I bought the ocsys valves and do wish they came with an position indicator/manual adjustment, but like JonW, I've never had to manually adjust them.

I thought I was buying 12V units, but when they arrived they turned out to be for voltages between 12 and 24vdc. I now run them at 24vdc as that is the same voltage as my pumps.

I do 10-15 gallon batches and have had no issues with 1/2 inch lines.

A quick look at the product manual link shows there are many models of actuators each using differing voltages and switching in different manners. A look through those should help you figure out which one will work the easiest for your application.

[Squeeky]

I was planning on the CR03 wiring, 12vdc (Same as OCSYS, I believe).

Everyone thread I've read about the manual control says it's a nice feature but rarely used. The indicator would be nice though. Really it's just a matter of interest, if not many are needed I'll just order from OCSYS, as I believe they stock the same valves.

Looks like other users have been offered better pricing, I'm going to do some more digging and see what I can come up with.

[Squeeky]

Disco Stu,

Just wanted to apologize for stepping on your thread, I think we will be putting something together if I can help. Otherwise good luck with the build, I'll leave your thread alone.

Keep not advertising, Disco Stu

[disco stu]

Thanks Squeeky, I actually live in Australia but thanks for the bulk buy offer. I had actually looked at the Tianjin Tianfei units aswell but decided to go with the KLD's because of the extra features Jon mentioned.
Thanks Jon for help, your information is priceless.

Squeeky, I just read your post in the HBT forum that you linked to above. "I have come to the realization that I enjoy building and modifying my brewery more then I enjoy using it. Went to AG after only 4 extract batches, propane to electric after 5 years AG, electric to full automated in the next 2 year" This is nearly identical to me! (However I'm hoping to brew my first beer from the automated setup before xmas! Maybe a bit optimistic?)


I would love to see your proposed valve diagram for your automated setup.
I will try and get my plans on here over the weekend to critiquing.

[Squeeky]

Disco,

You can find my rough draft here:

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/single ... -a-316223/

I haven't decided on brewtroller or BCS, they both have their +/-.
I like your brewery progression, I have had my home on the market for over a year now. My brewery is located almost an hour away so I don't get to brew as often. The plus side it has given me time to educate and plan for the future. I have a 30A system at relatives, but when I get this condo sold I plan on running 50A to my dedicated brewery (garage/shed). This will allow 10g back to backs or a future upgrade of 35g batches.